Making ‘Scents’ of the European Fragrance Market

Sir Cliff Richard’s recent launch of the fragrance Miss You Nights enters the European market that is already bursting at the seams with celebrity-led brands and other lesser knowns vying for a shot at being a lead star fragrance. However, with the flagging performance of fragrance this year as a whole, it’s going to need more than a famous name or lots of cash thrown into production to succeed. The four P’s of marketing (product, price, place and promotion) presented in the trappings of innovation must continue to abound, but more than ever brands are recognizing the need to remain culturally relevant as well.

Wanted: A Sense of Well-Being
 

Interestingly for many European markets, the key to being in touch for brands resides in the promise of emotional well-being. The uncertainties of economy, peace and welfare at a macro level, as well as the immediate stresses people encounter in day-to-day living, all make for a longing for security. Being well constitutes a happy, contented self and when it comes to the smaller things in life, namely brands, consumers seek the positive affirmation of free spirited, ‘well’ attitudes. Twenty-first century brands are waking up to this need.

Consider iPOD or Evian’s advertising. A drink can’t just be a drink anymore. Its image, founded mostly on emotional well-being, must be clear and coherent from concept to pack design.
How Does Fragrance Say ‘All’s Well?’

So if emotional well-being matters to the consumer society, what does fragrance say? In short, it says a lot. But we hasten to add, when it comes to advertising, it says a lot about the same thing. Our communications analysis has identified approximately five key messages, of which the code of desire and sensuality is the most significant in the sector. (see images below, l-r, Echo Woman by Davidoff, Deep Night by Ghost and J’adore by Dior)

While feeling good about who you are is central to emotional well-being, there are other aspects to it. In fragrance this can be expressed in other ways, such as highlighting one’s inner beauty or inner glow. Reflecting ways of living life to the fullest and self-expression can also enhance a fragrance brand image. Taking another cue from the beverage sector, Evian communicates well-being in terms of happiness and inner beauty. This also touches on other emotional aspects, such as being grounded in happiness in the real world, or, at the other extreme, connecting to a fantasy in a dream world.

Reaching the Modern Woman/Man

While fragrance advertising is extremely distinct, it must be acknowledged that, unfortunately its take on what makes a woman or a man feel well/good about themselves is mostly mono-dimensional and, dare we say, quite modeled on the cover illustration of a romance novel.

Surely to feel good goes beyond fantasy, sexual innuendo, or the notion of woman-as-goddess.
In current Euro­pean fragrance advertising, we are beginning to see glimpses of breaking this mold. Lacoste is expressing style, sophistication and depth of personality in new and exciting ways for the sector. (see image above) The challenge ahead is to tap into the psyche of fragrance wearers of today.

What Does Packaging Add?

But what about packaging design? How is it faring in the face of emotional well-being? Once again, it depends on the category. For example, the packaging for non-alcoholic drinks makes use of over a dozen well-being oriented design codes. Twinings iced tea drinks feature elegant art-like design, while Diet Coke choses to go the theatrical and vibrant design route. These brands recognize the variety of ways to express well-being via design and chose the one(s) that fit the best.

Fragrance Bottles Tell the Tale

When it comes to packaging, it doesn’t get more dramatic and evocative than fragrance and certainly the latest in designs is proving that this sector is a leader. The use of different sculptural effects in glass, advanced spraying and decorating techniques, lower profile pumps, faceted jewel-look over-caps, unusual colors of the fragrance juice, all demonstrate a category certainly worthy of having its own museum.

We only need to look at some of the more emergent fragrances to see the possibilities. Paul Smith London’s new fragrance for men and women is shaped like a genie’s bottle. The glass has a subtle tint and some very clever spraying effects that give it a mystical look. Mont Blanc, femme individuelle, is a design that is perfectly clear and minimalist, mimicking a hand-cut jewel. The fragrance is crystal clear and it is finished off with a simple silver metal over-cap. Bulgari’s fragrance Omnia uses a most daring shape and texture for fragrances. Designed to form two magnetic and inter-locking “O’s,” the use of glass and metallization defies all the usual design constraints. These fragrances are part of an emergent, elite group in the industry that is pushing the boundaries of what a normal fragrance communicates. They are tapping into finding the inner-glow, the radiance, discovery-of-self, living life to the fullest and the exploration of inner fantasies and dreams. These fragrance developers are starting to take notice of the world that exists around them. They are acknowledging that they need to be multi-dimensional in all aspects of their product—inherent features and structural messages.

Consider the Possibilities to Communicate

On the whole however, the way that emotional well-being is portrayed in design in the world of mainstream fragrances leaves room for improvement. While there are some brands echoing strong emotions in their format—Chance by Chanel is symbolic of an engagement ring—there is opportunity to embrace well-being via further exploration of structure, color, language and even font style. At the moment, fragrance department is king in department stores across Europe—glamorous and awesome. But what if they were to embrace emotional well-being via other design code routes? Consider a few possibilities: using tactile finishes such as soft-touch glass; choosing different colored spray dispensers other than the usual gold and silver tones; trying to create a closer connection than just the scent between the fragrance and the wearer. Such an approach could result in an even greater cultural relevance for fragrance and, ultimately, an increase in sales. We admit, it’s easier said than done to break the design codes existing in fragrance, but subtle modifications may make all the difference to an industry that needs to look closely at the world around it.